Conflict at the Salon
Jenny Deeprose and her fellow judges examined Pont l’Evêque AOP at the Concours. Credit: JDeeprose
When cheese judging at the annual Concours (CGA) in Paris, my family and friends have never worried about my safety before. However, this year there were violent scenes at the SIA (Paris Agricultural Show) as farmers clashed with French CRS riot police. A few days before, aggrieved farmers parked hundreds of tractors in Napoleon’s famous square, Les Invalides, causing traffic jams and confrontations on motorways on their way into the city. It received international coverage.
It is politically important for the président de la République to attend the popular SIA on its opening day, (24 February this year). With his entourage, Emmanuel Macron usually visits the hundreds of stands in Hall 1 where French dairy and beef farmers show their cattle. The president had an early breakfast with farmers’ leaders. Not long afterwards, a large group of angry farmers had been faced with the riot police within the show, and were dealt with strongly.
This meant that Macron did not meet later with farmers, retailers and food processors to discuss economic and bureaucratic woes, as the farmers’ unions refused to take part. This situation sparked endless TV debates in voluble French for days, and arguments about the deep-seated grievances from France’s agricultural community about EU rules, bureaucracy, green issues and their government allowing cheap imports.
Cows on show
Every variety of French dairy cow was represented live in Hall 1, in stalls manned by their handlers and farmers, ready for showing in the large ring, with a pop-up milking parlour at the rear of the hall run by Alfa-Laval. Dairy farmers were actively giving interviews about their difficulties, and the effect on their families. So much of life in France is still rural and the mood is desperate.
This contretemps delayed the opening of the show, which is not just a trade event, but attracts 600,000 visitors over two weeks, from Paris and beyond – including many families, as it is held during the French schools’ half term. It is, however, also a political fixture for all parties to engage with public and producers at the show and to make sure there are plenty of photographers. France’s prime minister Gabriel Attal said, “This agricultural show needs to stay as its always been, a national celebration… happy and peaceful.”
When I arrived early on Monday, I was expecting extra security, but judging panels were let in with very little delay, giving us a chance to have a coffee and croissant before our time in Hall 7 of the massive complex at the Porte de Versailles. The Concours Général Agricole is the professional section, and judges all the food and drink specialities of France. It is always exciting to be part of this 300-plus group, mainly French, who are going to spend the morning on tables of six, assessing and tasting the best of French dairy – regional and nationally produced cheeses, but also yogurt, butter, and milk powder. This Concours annually awards medals, and marketing incentives to France’s best-known food and drink products.
Take a table
Ushered through one small entrance after half an hour’s wait, the view was fabulous. A hall full of tables with cheeses that were large, such as Beaufort and Cantal; goat’s milk logs covered with ash; ultra white ewe’s milk delicacies, rind washed pungent Epoisses, large soft rinded Brie de Meaux, to blues of Bleu d’Auvergne, Roquefort and Fourme d’Ambert. The aromas were so appealing to anyone who loves cheese.
This year, I was on Table 131 and presented with five square, slightly golden Pont l’Evêques. Fellow jurors included three cheese makers, one chef, and a consumer, who had judged for years.
The cheeses were examined closely and matched to the official Pont l’Evêque AOP description, its qualities and faults are carefully noted, slowly and meticulously. Cheeses should be about three to four centimetres thick, with parallel sides. AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protegée) has its essential characteristics, including the colour of the rind; a leger duvet (light duvet) of white mould; the creamy pale yellow paste inside and a slight elasticity in texture. These are part of the heritage of production, important to the French consumer as well as the cheese maker.
Although I’ve had the privilege of taking part in these judging sessions for some years, I’m always slightly apprehensive, because I have to write my comments in French, including points out of 20. The most points go to the aroma and flavour. We are looking for “creamy, slightly nutty, a bit of ‘stable’, but intense, possessing a good rich taste which stays in the mouth.” The discussion was knowledgeable, and at times quite heated. The tasting was prolonged and very challenging.
Because there were only five cheeses in this class we could only award one gold medal, and it ended up being four judges for a slightly softer mature Pont l’Evḕque. Although not as firm as some, the taste was very full and traditional. Two argued against it, and it was great to listen to the Gallic discussion, although I’d already decided that cheese was our gold.
Having spent all the morning tasting five cheeses, there were another thousand or so to taste up in Hall 7.2 (25-27 February). The Salon du Fromage et Produits Laitiers is a show within a show, for trade only, every two years. This year, it was larger, brighter and very impressive. Registering 8,500 visitors, there were 290 exhibitors, with 60 per cent French and the other 40 per cent from 15 countries. Feedback has been very positive, with new products, professional seminars, latest trends, and conviviality. This is a great advantage of shows in France, as after midday most stands are opening bottles and welcoming distributors, wholesalers and restauranteurs.
There was so much to enjoy, but the colourful Bouchons illustrated the trend for small cheeses for starters or apéritifs, with the use of fruit, flowers and other garnishes (see photo). The larger French producers were very pleased with the number of visitors to the show, especially as Brexit has caused problems that can be addressed better face to face.
There were 7,233 judges for the two weeks – let loose on wine, eau-de-vie, dairy products, oysters, charcuterie, foie gras, honey and so forth. They awarded 649 gold medals, 784 silver and 413 bronzes, and demonstrating “a diversity of knowledge and experience, which have ensured the integrity and quality of the Concours results. Your expertise, your involvement and your passion have contributed to making this event a veritable success.” Merci. It was a privilege to be part of it.
