In DII’s regular column, an industry figure airs personal views
on a variety of subjects.

Whenever cheesemakers and cheeselovers meet there is tension, and not much appreciation from the lovers of any companies who make more than a few kilogrammes a month and who form uninspiring blocks rather than traditional moulds.
But when in the company of those who think nothing good ever comes out of a large creamery, it can be pointed out that many of their cheeses win prizes at prestigious shows and exhibitions, and with care and expertise they taste good.
However, taking part in a blind tasting a few weeks ago, I crossed the divide. I realised that after a while, those who taste nothing but cheese from the yellow brick wall of the multiple retailers can’t experience the explosion of flavour from the real