In praise of processed

In our industry, we discuss terroir a lot – the link of the land to the product, such as cheese. Indeed, you can taste the grass in a piece of Keen’s cheddar from Somerset. But there is also sometimes a link to products that are decidely less wholesome than the remarkable cheeses of the UK. In childhood, people eat a lot of what can only be described as “junk” food – processed cheese, Angel Delight, boxed macaroni and cheese, Stove Top stuffing, Oreo cookies and so forth. Eating these things can be Proustian experience for some people. I admit to a bit of it myself, although I have found the boxed mac and cheese to be overly salty for my adult tastebuds.

In my parents’ defense, they did not allow most of these items into the house, but I was a determined child and did get my hands on such delicacies at my friends’ houses. And, processed American cheese was a staple of the 1970s in everyone’s fridge.

That’s why I found it interesting that in New York State, they are doing away with the punishment of “loaf” in solitary confinement. “Loaf” is a brick made up of various items such as carrot peelings and flour and is fed to those misbehaving on the solitary ward. Instead, the inmates will now be given fruit and two slices of sliced American cheese, four slices of bread and two hard-boiled eggs. The idea is that an improved diet will also improve their behaviour.

The processed cheese that is American is not exactly haute cuisine. But it is one of those memory triggers of most Americans’ childhoods – we ate a fair amount of sliced yellow cheese, either in sandwiches, on its own, or (most delightfully) in grilled cheese sandwiches. I still default to American cheese on burgers when I can get it. So, at least it’s something to cheer New York inmates up, even while sending shudders down the spine of most turophiles. A bit of cheese will go a long way, processed or not.