The passion for maturing cheese

There is no equivalent word in English for the French expressions affinage, referring to the maturing of a cheese, or the person who undertakes this task, the affineur. The language adequately describes the process of ageing and improving, bringing the ‘living’ cheese to its pinnacle of texture, flavour and character. It describes a lengthy, intense watchful process together with technical implications of temperature, humidity and precise conditions. “Maturing” just sounds like the cheese is left to get on with its own development.

Mary Quicke, the doyenne of UK artisan cheese making, described the maturing rooms of Quicke’s cloth-bound cheddar in Devon. In her Dairy Diary she wrote, “I love the new cheeses, larded into their muslin cheesecloths, sitting on their shelves all pristine, still slightly warm. I love the cathedral-like sense of our cheese maturing in the main store on racks for 12 months or more.”

It was appropriate that Patrick Spinazza, wholesale account manager for cheese makers Carron Lodge, shared his idea for the Affineur of the Year competition with Quicke, who had been instrumental in setting up the Academy of Cheese. His aim was to make good connections between cheese makers and cheesemongers. “When I first came up with the idea of Affineur of the year, I knew it had potential. I hoped the industry would see that too. But those first few phone calls were tough. I was met with responses like, ‘We don’t do that here’ or ‘leave it to the experts’. Mary Quicke and Tracey Colley, a founding director of the Academy of Cheese, backed the idea 100 per cent. The whole point was to learn. You can’t expect an entire industry to change overnight, but you can start the conversation.”

The journey

The first competition was held in 2022, “to recognise the artistry of cheese maturation” on cloth-bound truckles of young Quicke’s Cheddar. These were distributed in 2021 to ten affineurs across the UK, which they nurtured over 12 months. The first winner was Perry Wakeman, from Rennet and Rind in Cambridge. A live panel of cheese judges assessed the entrants.

This year on Tuesday 3 June, the finals of the 2025 Affineur of the Year competition were held in London, and the success of this annual affinage “jamboree” has grown. There are now five different original cheeses, all prize winners in their own right.

Seventeen different cheese mongers entered this year’s competition, all willing to take young cheeses and showcase their own unique extra care and expertise. The original and on-going aim is to control the humidity, temperature, and biome to develop and optimise the taste of the young cheese chosen, but give it an extra dimension.

St Mary’s Church in Marylebone was full of stands representing the 17 contestants with plenty of cheeses on show and ready for tasting. Also represented were the original cheese makers, supplemented by extra sponsors and food and wine producers. There was a large crowd of visitors, all happy to taste cheese, while taking notes to eventually vote for the People’s choice.

Included was a French contingent of cheesemongers from all over the country, arranged by Mons Cheesemongers, which has cheese shops in London, including Borough Market. Its affineurs age Continental and British cheeses in cellars here and on the Cộte Roannaise. The judging panel of experts included Laurent Mons.

The overall winner of this year’s Affineur of the Year received a trophy and a fully-funded scholarship to attend Mons’ five-day affinage course in France.

The five cheeses

The five original cheeses to be matured were Quicke’s clothbound Cheddar, Blue Shropshire from Cropwell Bishop, (both 8kg); Fen Farm dairy’s 1kg Baron Bigod; Trethowan brothers’ Gorwydd Caerphilly(1kg) and Solstice from White Lake Cheese at a diminutive 180g. These were all supplied to the contestants in March, to be matured by the end of May.

After the judging, the panel were interviewed on impressions of this year’s entries. One of the judges, Sarah Miness, (buyer for Waitrose speciality cheeses) said, “There were lots of experimental techniques, with interesting rinds and additions of herbs or flowers. The Bigod bries had enormous variations, some more successful than others. There was quite a difference of opinion among the judges,” she admitted.

Rhuaridh Buchanan, of Buchanan’s Cheesemongers, remarked that out of 11 versions of the Caerphilly, 10 had been washed in brine, or a combination of brine and alcohol.

Mons admitted that he was slightly concerned about judging the cheddar: “I tend to transfer my knowledge of Cantal fermier rustique, although cheddar is more precise and traditional. In the rules of the competition, if you do what you intend, you’ve understood what affinage is all about. In England it is still a bit of a mystery, but you are getting on with it.”

Among the versions of the Quicke’s Cheddar was Brindisa’s. A company promoting Spanish cheeses and other products, its affineur removed the flora just beginning to develop, took the cloth off and washed the new rind with a mixture of brine and saffron, giving a golden ‘glow’. Cheesemongers No 2 Pound Street in London suspended its cheddar in a barrel of Ximénez sherry for three months, then the rind was sealed with raisins and sultanas.

According to judge Spinazza, blues can be tricky, because the critical criteria include piercing and its timing, under correct humidity, so if there is a lack of moisture, the drying out will affect the texture and taste. I personally tasted the original Cropwell Bishop Shropshire Blue first, and was impressed by its creaminess, subtle blue flavour, and very long finish. The category winner was White Lake Cheese Company.

Baron Bigod is a soft white bloomy rind cheese in the UK, made in Suffolk from Montbéliarde cows’ milk. The category winner was The Fine Cheese company, with its version, rind-washed giving a darker thicker appearance, and surrounding the cheese with a ring of spruce bark, (looked like a Vacherin Mont d’Or). Neal’s Yard specialises in selecting, maturing and selling British and Irish cheeses, with three shops in London, and maturing rooms in Bermondsey. Its version was called Baron Beltane (named after a Gaelic May Day festival) and was flavoured by the addition of dried gorse and rosemary. According to Ellen Rodda, a member of their team, “We wanted to explore the effect of natural elements in cheesemaking, and with sea salt, added gorse flowers, from my farm in Cornwall; and rosemary from a colleague Will’s London garden. The white bloomy rind developed well with a creamy texture and savoury notes.”

The smallest cheese, Solstice, at 180g seemed to give the prospective affineurs freedom to change it visually, its taste and texture. This included rind-washing with brine or alcohol, adding a layer of ash, or decorating with fruit.

The Fine Cheese company won this category – its example was enhanced and flavoured by hedge garlic. Paxton and Whitfield went down the French route, washing the small cheese with dessert wine Monbazillac and decorating the top with soaked raisins, cranberries and golden raisins.

Each cheesemonger competing in this year’s Affineur process had to complete the submission, starting with statement of intent and including affinage records. This gave answers, so that every step of the maturation and the associated records could be assessed, anonymously under a class and cheese code number only.

Through the months the temperature strategy; humidity; rind management; target flavour profile; sensory evaluation; regular assessments and quality control were all carefully documented.

Afterwards, the owner of Rennet and Rind, Mark Hulme, shared the submission and affinage records for its version. “Our goal is to develop a cheddar that not only reflects the craftsmanship of British cheese-making but also evokes the distinctive flavour profile of cheeses from hotter climates, such as Northern Spain,” it said.

For this cheddar, “To achieve the bold flavour we’re aiming for, the cheddar will be aged starting at a high temperature of 20-19˚C, gradually decreasing to 13˚C. This accelerated maturation process is inspired by techniques used in hotter climates, where higher temperatures lead to faster biochemical changes and more pronounced flavour development. We are aiming for a cheddar with a buttery, spicy, and slightly acidic character, featuring the distinctive butyric notes that are cherished by afficionados. If successful, this cheddar will offer a bold and unforgettable tasting experience.”

The results saw the Fine Cheese Company win the category rosettes for its version of Baron Bigod; Solstice; and the Gorwydd Caerphilly. The People’s choice voted for on the day by visitors was its rind-washed matured Bigod Brie.

The Affineur of the Year 2025, was won by Perry Wakeman of Rennet and Rind, for its Spanish-inspired version of the Quicke’s Cheddar. In his acceptance, he said, “Maturing cheese means everything to me. You don’t always hear feedback from customers after months of work, but it is lovely to be in a room with nearly every cheese person who cares passionately.”